Ok not good at decorating-- too left brained for that:) painted paneling in basement a light blue color -- looks good-- we recently ripped up old carpet in basement and I am thinking cheapest way is to paint the cement-- (not enough money to buy tiles or more carpet at present) -- is there a paint and color that anyone would recommend for concrete and to match the light blue walls-- as much as I hate to admit it -- its sort of a Carolina Tarheel Blue-- Is there a certain type of paint for concrete?? PLEASE HELP--Painted basement paneling light blue color-- cement floor needs to be covered--?
possibly a light grey
im not sure about colours
but im a painter, and i know that for sure you have to buy proper cement floor paint. or your floor will end up peeling (looks alot worse then not painted cement)Painted basement paneling light blue color-- cement floor needs to be covered--?
Whatever store you go to will help you pick the right product to use. I'm sure it will say concrete paint on the can.
Anyway, light beige, light brown (like a sandy brown) or even a sandalwood, which has a little bit of a pink tone, should all look good. Just get a soft neutral color that doesn't clash, the blue is your theme color for the room and you don't need anything exciting on the floor.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
A contractor washed cement plaster off an enamel painted, metal roof with HCL.?
Roof has a 45 deg pitch. he then washed down the roof. from the next day we then had three days of rain. The owner says the roof must be replaced. She says that the more you add water to HCL, the more corrosive it becomes. I understand that a roof isn't a container and that adding water must (1) dilute it and (2) remove it. can someone please offer some solid scientific answer that may help here. this poor guy needs the factsA contractor washed cement plaster off an enamel painted, metal roof with HCL.?
HCl is soluble in water. Adding water to a HCl solution dilutes the acid. Add enough water and the HCl solution approaches the acidity of rain water. The HCl has been completely washed away by 3 days of rain. There certainly won't be any HCl solution left on the roof. The HCl was probably washed away by the contractor when he rinsed off the roof after cleaning it.
The owner is confused about HCl. The gas, HCl, ionizes in water and is corrosive. Exposing the roof to concentrated HCl solution is more corrosive than exposing a dry rood to HCl gas. However, the more water you add to a HCl solution, the weaker (and less corrosive) it becomes.short hair cut
HCl is soluble in water. Adding water to a HCl solution dilutes the acid. Add enough water and the HCl solution approaches the acidity of rain water. The HCl has been completely washed away by 3 days of rain. There certainly won't be any HCl solution left on the roof. The HCl was probably washed away by the contractor when he rinsed off the roof after cleaning it.
The owner is confused about HCl. The gas, HCl, ionizes in water and is corrosive. Exposing the roof to concentrated HCl solution is more corrosive than exposing a dry rood to HCl gas. However, the more water you add to a HCl solution, the weaker (and less corrosive) it becomes.
How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
A power washer might be your best bet.How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
The dried egg can be removed by first soaking the area with normal room temperature water. This will loosen the layers of egg and shell. Next step is to mop the area using soft fabric or sponge. Try not to rub it hard to peal the egg. This needs to be repeated in several rounds depending on how thick the layer of egg is. You can use very mild detergent but avoid if you are concerned about the paint color change. I wouldn't use hot water especially on painted surfaces. It might be ok to use warm water or detergent on cement. Again depends on where the cement is. If it is the driveway, its perfectly ok to use warm water and mild detergent.
Power wash is ok if the egg is on the siding / brick / cement or asphalt driveway or garage door. Even with power wash I would recommend mild soaking round of wash first and then follow up with a little stronger stream.How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
I would try a bucket of hot soapy water, a sponge and or scrub brush! If i had a power washer available I'd use that.
Take a flat head screwdriver and get to work.
W TF are there egg shells there anyway?
The dried egg can be removed by first soaking the area with normal room temperature water. This will loosen the layers of egg and shell. Next step is to mop the area using soft fabric or sponge. Try not to rub it hard to peal the egg. This needs to be repeated in several rounds depending on how thick the layer of egg is. You can use very mild detergent but avoid if you are concerned about the paint color change. I wouldn't use hot water especially on painted surfaces. It might be ok to use warm water or detergent on cement. Again depends on where the cement is. If it is the driveway, its perfectly ok to use warm water and mild detergent.
Power wash is ok if the egg is on the siding / brick / cement or asphalt driveway or garage door. Even with power wash I would recommend mild soaking round of wash first and then follow up with a little stronger stream.How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
I would try a bucket of hot soapy water, a sponge and or scrub brush! If i had a power washer available I'd use that.
Take a flat head screwdriver and get to work.
W TF are there egg shells there anyway?
Can you put hydraulic cement over a painted cracking cement wall?
the house is from 1959. Before I bought it the owners re-landscaped without any consideration for water flow thus causing the basement to have seepage through the walls. I fixed the water flow issue (1.5 years dry) but now I have painted cement walls that have paint pushed out/peeling with a few visible cracks and wonderful mineral deposition. I really don't want to spend the time with the metal wire brush to strip the paint off so I would like to just use hydraulic cement over the whole wall and then use a water sealing paint over the top. Is this a good idea? other suggestions?Can you put hydraulic cement over a painted cracking cement wall?
That sounds more time consuming than just scraping off the peeling paint.....
Here's 1 problem w/your approach, latex paint dries so fast that it actually creates a vacuum effect in doing so, which means that as it dries it'll pull off the surface anything that's not firmly attached, which is why prep work's so important to longevity. You won't immediately notice this happening, but w/the passage of time you'll be back to the peeling wall in spades.
I've never heard of skim-coating w/hydraulic cement, but I've done plenty of patching plaster walls w/plaster of paris, %26amp; what immediately comes to mind are the inherent problems w/working in a medium that sets up so quickly, I can't imagine how you'd get a whole wall covered %26amp; looking even satisfactory (but I'm pretty picky, I figure when people are paying me I'm obliged to do a better job than they could've) w/out going insane in the process.
I learned the trick to plaster, but I don't know the chemistry of hydraulic cement well enough to find a retardant for it.
Anyways, I know prep-work sucks, but often it's just easiest to do it %26amp; get it over with (start w/a stiff putty knife, by the way) rather than inventing a new process %26amp; having to deal w/a long string of learning curves as you go.
The first question that came to mind w/your question is have you ever skim-coated anything before so that you'd have even a vague idea of what you're getting yourself into potentially, but if you must create, than by all means go forth!
That sounds more time consuming than just scraping off the peeling paint.....
Here's 1 problem w/your approach, latex paint dries so fast that it actually creates a vacuum effect in doing so, which means that as it dries it'll pull off the surface anything that's not firmly attached, which is why prep work's so important to longevity. You won't immediately notice this happening, but w/the passage of time you'll be back to the peeling wall in spades.
I've never heard of skim-coating w/hydraulic cement, but I've done plenty of patching plaster walls w/plaster of paris, %26amp; what immediately comes to mind are the inherent problems w/working in a medium that sets up so quickly, I can't imagine how you'd get a whole wall covered %26amp; looking even satisfactory (but I'm pretty picky, I figure when people are paying me I'm obliged to do a better job than they could've) w/out going insane in the process.
I learned the trick to plaster, but I don't know the chemistry of hydraulic cement well enough to find a retardant for it.
Anyways, I know prep-work sucks, but often it's just easiest to do it %26amp; get it over with (start w/a stiff putty knife, by the way) rather than inventing a new process %26amp; having to deal w/a long string of learning curves as you go.
The first question that came to mind w/your question is have you ever skim-coated anything before so that you'd have even a vague idea of what you're getting yourself into potentially, but if you must create, than by all means go forth!
Any method removing epoxy paints from cement walls?
removing epoxy food grade paints from water tanks without much damage to the wallsAny method removing epoxy paints from cement walls?
It sounds to me like you are stuck in a serious quagmire. To remove it chemically, will contaminate or seriously damage the walls of the tank. A sand blaster will remove the paint but it will also cause damage to the surface of the tank walls. A high pressure wash may also be an alternative. You will have to choose the lesser of the evils and resurface the inside of the tank if necessary.Any method removing epoxy paints from cement walls?
use 3% solution of NaOCl ( leander whiting solution ) when ou do that proved your selfb with your owen oxegen soures for more tipe contect me
It sounds to me like you are stuck in a serious quagmire. To remove it chemically, will contaminate or seriously damage the walls of the tank. A sand blaster will remove the paint but it will also cause damage to the surface of the tank walls. A high pressure wash may also be an alternative. You will have to choose the lesser of the evils and resurface the inside of the tank if necessary.Any method removing epoxy paints from cement walls?
use 3% solution of NaOCl ( leander whiting solution ) when ou do that proved your selfb with your owen oxegen soures for more tipe contect me
Thursday, February 25, 2010
We have rust colored deposits growing on painted white cement block basement walls..anyone know what this is?
it forms little tiny balls the size of be-be's and form miny clustersWe have rust colored deposits growing on painted white cement block basement walls..anyone know what this is?
It has to be seepage coming from your water system. I'm guessing it's on the inside of the the basement wall, not the outside.
Do you have a sprinkler system to water your lawn? Even treated city water can make rust stains on light-colored surfaces. If your lawn slopes toward your house instead of away from it, the water can seep into your basement through the blocks if they weren't properly backplastered. Easiest way to fix this would be to add some topsoil to your yard where it's low around the house so the water drains away from the house.
If you don't have sprinklers or low spots, is the problem near where your water enters your house? There may be a leaky water main out there. If that might be the case, call your city water department and have them check it out. They won't pay for cleaning up your basement, but they might be able to stop it from getting any worse.We have rust colored deposits growing on painted white cement block basement walls..anyone know what this is?
Could be mold from dampness. If you don't already have a dehumidifier I suggest you get one. Get one to handle the square footage.
Also check the hair line cracks in the wall. Another thing you can do, is make sure the water/rain is diverted away from the house foundation.
You can extend your rain cutters by using black hosing that goes around the down spouts.
They'll know what you need at any of the home improvement stores.
You're going to have to wash the wall down with bleach to get rid of the mold.
Metal ties are sometimes used to hold the blocks together or to the outside wall.These sound as if they are now wet and rusting do try to look at one area to identify if I am correct.I am not sur of the remedy and if this were the case the advice of a builder of structural engineer maybe a way foreword.
It has to be seepage coming from your water system. I'm guessing it's on the inside of the the basement wall, not the outside.
Do you have a sprinkler system to water your lawn? Even treated city water can make rust stains on light-colored surfaces. If your lawn slopes toward your house instead of away from it, the water can seep into your basement through the blocks if they weren't properly backplastered. Easiest way to fix this would be to add some topsoil to your yard where it's low around the house so the water drains away from the house.
If you don't have sprinklers or low spots, is the problem near where your water enters your house? There may be a leaky water main out there. If that might be the case, call your city water department and have them check it out. They won't pay for cleaning up your basement, but they might be able to stop it from getting any worse.We have rust colored deposits growing on painted white cement block basement walls..anyone know what this is?
Could be mold from dampness. If you don't already have a dehumidifier I suggest you get one. Get one to handle the square footage.
Also check the hair line cracks in the wall. Another thing you can do, is make sure the water/rain is diverted away from the house foundation.
You can extend your rain cutters by using black hosing that goes around the down spouts.
They'll know what you need at any of the home improvement stores.
You're going to have to wash the wall down with bleach to get rid of the mold.
Metal ties are sometimes used to hold the blocks together or to the outside wall.These sound as if they are now wet and rusting do try to look at one area to identify if I am correct.I am not sur of the remedy and if this were the case the advice of a builder of structural engineer maybe a way foreword.
Is it a bad idea to use a composite hockey stick on painted cement?
So, I have a CCM Vector 6 composite stick, and I want to use it in my garage. Its cement, but its painted with glossy paint, so its pretty smooth (and awesome to practice shooting on). But my last stick (a wooden one) got beat up pretty bad and started falling apart at the bottom, but I used this stick on gravel as well.
I plan on using it with friction tape and maybe even a strip of duct tape on the bottom.
I was just wondering if anyone knows whether this is a bad idea or not? thanksIs it a bad idea to use a composite hockey stick on painted cement?
If replacing sticks more often than usual doesn't matter to you go ahead it's your coin.
Personally though on my budget I make sure to use an ABS blade when playing roller or ball hockey because it has the playability of fibreglass but will eventually wear down as opposed to delaminate and crack (like wood) or snap (like carbonfibre)Is it a bad idea to use a composite hockey stick on painted cement?
Iike HabsFan said, the ABS blade will suit you best. I myself have a tried wood and composites of top and low quality on the cement and they do the same thing, they break rapidly. However, if you must use your one piece out side, dont put the friction tape on the bottom, its not worth it because then you cant shoot the puck. duct tape only lasts for so long. Just get yourself a cheap shaft with ABS blade, or a wood stick with ABS blade.
only do it if you really don't care about the stick. if you still intend to use it on the ice, then i think it's a bad idea. just go buy a cheap wooden stick or something. plus it'll be heavier which is good to train with.
If you don't like money, send it my way.
I plan on using it with friction tape and maybe even a strip of duct tape on the bottom.
I was just wondering if anyone knows whether this is a bad idea or not? thanksIs it a bad idea to use a composite hockey stick on painted cement?
If replacing sticks more often than usual doesn't matter to you go ahead it's your coin.
Personally though on my budget I make sure to use an ABS blade when playing roller or ball hockey because it has the playability of fibreglass but will eventually wear down as opposed to delaminate and crack (like wood) or snap (like carbonfibre)Is it a bad idea to use a composite hockey stick on painted cement?
Iike HabsFan said, the ABS blade will suit you best. I myself have a tried wood and composites of top and low quality on the cement and they do the same thing, they break rapidly. However, if you must use your one piece out side, dont put the friction tape on the bottom, its not worth it because then you cant shoot the puck. duct tape only lasts for so long. Just get yourself a cheap shaft with ABS blade, or a wood stick with ABS blade.
only do it if you really don't care about the stick. if you still intend to use it on the ice, then i think it's a bad idea. just go buy a cheap wooden stick or something. plus it'll be heavier which is good to train with.
If you don't like money, send it my way.
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